Introduction

This is a blog of the Jazzbeaux Rhine River cruise on AmaCello in 2013. We flew to Amsterdam and boarded the AmaCello, cruised to Cologne and Koblenz; Rudesheim; Speyer (for Heidelberg); Strasbourg; Breisach (for Colmar & Riquewihr); and Basel – then stayed with Ama for a post-cruise extension to Lucerne and Zurich, before flying home.

During the trip, Jazzbelle kept detailed notes and I took lots of pictures. After returning home, I revised the notes to remove names [to protect the guilty, as they say…] and put it in my voice to avoid confusion.

Thursday, August 29 – Flight to Amsterdam

We drove to Newark for our flight on United, parking at the Hilton nearby. This was a great discovery: globalairportparking brokers a wide range of parking locations near the airport. Instead of an open lot with no services, we chose the Hilton Hotel: secure covered garage, a nice lobby with restrooms, and a quick 24-hour shuttle service. And the price was less than half what Hilton charges directly.

Check-in was smooth and TSA PreCheck got us through security with shoes intact and laptop stowed in its upright and luggage position. The flight took off on time and landed a little early, and customs at AMS was easy and well-organized despite the early hour. [Apparently the Dutch are smart enough to realize that if you have nothing to declare, there’s no reason to make you declare it!]

Friday, August 30 – Amsterdam

AmaWaterways’ [AMA] instructions had said to go to their “desk” in Arrivals 3. There was no desk, but there were a couple of AMA staff floating around. We found them right away by the strategy of asking a Viking rep – he whipped out a cell phone and called his AMA colleague who came right over. [Unfortunately another couple didn’t think of this and had been wandering around for an hour. By the time they found the AMA rep they were quite upset.]

We weren’t sure what to expect from the AMA shuttle: would we sit on a bus for an hour waiting for other flights? So we were prepared to give them our luggage and take the quick train to downtown. But ours must have been the last flight for a while, because the bus left right away and whisked us to the ship about as fast as the train would have, and we got a taste of Amsterdam on the way.

AMA had a nice snack laid out in the lounge [where the departing APT passengers from the prior cruise were waiting], and our Cruise Director Reka Piros [who was great!] gave us maps and directions for sightseeing.

We walked over to Centraal Station to get Euros. The station is quite large and there are ticket machines everywhere, but it was hard to find an ATM. There were several Travelex stores exchanging money, but we didn’t want to pay an exchange fee since our Schwab debit card gives us a good rate with no fees. Finally we found an ING ATM and got our cash.

Then we went across to the Tourist Information to buy 24-hour transit passes [you can do this on board the tram, but the ATM only gave us 50 Euro bills and I wasn’t sure you could get change on the tram]

Then onto tram 5 and straight to the Rijksmuseum. We had bought tickets online so we were able to walk right in. The renovation of the museum is wonderful and we were able to enjoy the great Rembrandts, Vermeers, etc. despite the crowds. The Night Watch, after restoration, is much brighter than when we viewed it 40 years ago. We followed Rick Steves’ tour for the museum, with a brief stop for a 15 minute catnap sitting on a bench in one of the side rooms, and still finished in less than his suggested 90 minutes.

An easy walk took us to the Van Gogh Museum. We had purchased tickets online for the 1 pm slot [or 1300 as the Army and Europeans call it…] The reports about this ticket program are true: we lined up with the other 1 pm holders and waited 15 minutes while others just walked up to the ticket booth and went right in. No matter how empty the ticket queues are, the museum will not let timed-ticket holders in early. But on a really busy day, the walk-up line could be very long and then having a timed ticket would get you in much quicker, so it’s still good insurance to do it.

The Jazzbeaux both enjoy art but we usually don’t need to enjoy it at length – we have each independently gone through the Louvre in 30 minutes. [This is now a family saying, “do a Louvre”…]  So it says volumes about how good the renovated Van Gogh Museum is that we spent three hours there. We explored all four floors and enjoyed not only the paintings themselves but also the scientific exhibits on the upper floors about the technology of paint pigments, restoration, and Van Gogh’s drawing techniques. We took a break in the middle for lunch at the museum café [nothing to recommend, except location], and ended with a short snooze during the film [which is in Dutch with subtitles, so once you close your eyes you don’t get much out of it…]

We had hoped to do one or two other places (Hermitage Museum and Amstelkring Museum), but we were so exhausted that we went back to the ship and collapsed on the bed.

Now the second (and last) complaint about AMA service. I had emailed AMA HQ about planning our sightseeing schedule and specifically asked when the Welcome Dinner would be and whether there would be a meeting beforehand. No meeting and dinner at 7:30 was the reply. But our nap was interrupted at 5:45 by a shipboard announcement that the mandatory safety drill and introductory meeting was about to start at 6 pm, with dinner immediately afterward at 7. Yikes! Well, there was no attempt to change as we hadn’t begun to unpack! This wasn’t a big problem, and was in fact good planning – but it was a problem that AMA gave me wrong advice beforehand.

As we entered the Lounge for the safety drill/meeting we were handed flutes of bubbly and waiters came around with trays of hors d’oeuvres. AMA’s reputation for good food was immediately borne out.

We wound up sitting in a cluster of chairs with a married couple from Delaware and 2 older sisters formerly from NY. We all decided to eat dinner together. That evening our conversation went on so long that we only left the dining room because we realized we were the only ones left! And we got on so well together that we continued to do so every evening [both dine together and close the place down…] Bonding right off the bat with “The Gang” was one of the highlights of the cruise.

After dinner we walked into Amsterdam on our own to see the infamous Red Light District. We wandered all over, had a friendly escapade with a Canadian couple who tried to direct us. They were doing a bicycle/barge cruise. We turned around and headed back toward the station. Others pointed us to the night scene. Another fellow saw our confusion and steered us to the street. And there they were!!!

Back on the ship, we finally had to unpack. The cabin seemed smaller than its measurements at first, but we were able to store all our stuff and get the suitcases under the bed so it worked just fine. The shower was a little tight, probably because it is shaped as a triangle. The French balcony was very nice: the window-wall gave nice views [the drapes shut out almost all the light so sleeping wasn’t a problem], and we were glad to be able to open the sliding door and look out several times. [I think our days of Inside Cabins are over…]

We slept very well even after our naps. The beds were comfortable enough and the ship was still tied up this first night. [Sleeping was never a problem even when underway – AmaCello is a very smooth sailer]

The Gang on AMAcello

Saturday, August 31 – Amsterdam to Cologne

Today AMA provided a canal cruise and a “panoramic city tour” [which means a bus ride with a little walking…] Skies were overcast and we had just boarded the canal boat when the rain hit – but it ended before the cruise was over, and that was it for bad weather until the end of the trip. After an hour on the water we transferred to buses for more sightseeing, including a nice walking stop to see Begijnhof and a photo op at the Rembrandt Windmill, and then a ride to meet our ship in Wiljk bin Duurstede in time for lunch. [The ship sailed while we were touring, to get through the boring canal that connects Amsterdam to the Rhine]

We sailed all afternoon for Cologne, Germany. This gave us a chance to catch up on jet lag.

Sunday, September 1 – Cologne to Koblenz

We woke up in Cologne and took a morning walking tour of the old town. Our guide brought samples of the famous 4711 (brand) Eau de Cologne, as well as the original formula. The old town is very interesting, especially as she pointed out the irreverent side with a statue on the Rathaus (City Hall) mooning the Bishop’s palace across the way, and a more modern statue mooning the City Hall. The tour ended at the Cologne Cathedral, where we had been told there was an 11:00 Mass. At 10:30 we decided to check the schedule – good thing as high Mass had started at 10 and the next Mass was at noon (too late for our afternoon sailing). So we went in and attended the last hour of the high Mass. We arrived during the sermon [which was in German, and long…] The rest of the Mass was easy to follow despite the language barrier, and we were lifted up by the most beautiful voices in their choir (mostly children).

As we walked back to the bus we regretted not having time to visit the Roman Archeological Museum. [We did have a minute to check out the Cathedral gift shop. They had a poster of the cathedral made out of musical notes, with the title Ode de Cologne – I almost bought it just for the pun…]

Again we sailed in the afternoon, this time to Koblenz where we went on a post-dinner walking tour. Watch those cobblestones! We were with our four new pals [The Gang] and enjoyed our evening. [I had read one review on CC that complained it was too dark to see much and everything is closed on Sunday night, and another who said the evening walk was magical. ‘Magical’ became the byword for the rest of the cruise, partly in gest but mostly because so many things were really wonderful]

Monday, September 2 – Koblenz to Rudesheim

Today was Labor Day in the US, but not Europe since they celebrate it on May Day. [We did no labor. This made us feel very French…]

This was the day to see castles as we cruised the Rhine Valley from 8:00 to 2:00. Mercifully it wasn’t raining, but it started windy and cold up on the Sun Deck – which is the best viewpoint since the castles are on both sides and the perspective changes as you approach and then pass each one. Jazzbelle was chilled even though she wore a fleece, a lined windbreaker with hood, and gloves – and walked a mile and a quarter on the track to keep warm. After a while she was castled out and went below for a nap. Jazzbeau toughed it out – ok, I spent some time in the Lounge warming up – to get a complete set of pictures. When Jazzbelle returned for more crenellations she was pleased to find warmer temps and less wind.

Our cruise director Reka handed out a map and guide to the castles and kept up a running commentary – this was very helpful and even if the stories attached to each castle aren’t true, they are entertaining. We passed the Lorelei rock and heard her siren song [over the ship’s PA system – did you know she sounds a lot like Dietrich Fischer-Dieskau?] As I processed the pictures, I was pleased to find that we had seen every one in Reka’s handout and in the book Castles and Palaces on the Rhine, which I picked up in the ship’s gift shop. This is the scenic focus of this itinerary, so I’m glad to report that it was ‘magical.’

The chef treated us to an excellent German lunch before our afternoon tour of Rudesheim.

In the afternoon the weather had changed dramatically and we were climbing uphill through a vineyard with owner Adolf Storzel informing us about vines, viruses, fruit flies, etc. in 80+ degree heat and full sun! It was brutal, but better than the morning. We sampled three different Rieslings and an Auslese [by special request, and our favorite] before descending to the village to explore on our own. We had taken a mini train to the vineyard but chose to walk back to the ship, stopping for gelato and to visit two churches. We really like the German kirchen as they are simple in style [this is true of all the Protestant churches but also many Catholic ones]. More Ikea than Italian.

After dinner we boarded the mini train again to see Siegfried’s Mechanical Music Cabinet Museum. Loved it!

Tuesday, September 3 – Heidelberg and Speyer

Today we docked in Speyer at noon. We could have taken a walking tour of Speyer, but we chose the excursion to Heidelberg. This turned out to be a very long trip, since Heidelberg is 90 minutes each way by bus and there’s a lot to do there – but it was worth it. [This was probably helped by the beautiful weather: sunny, 70s] We started with a tour of the castle [very large and it gives you an idea of what was going on in all those other castles we passed yesterday], and then walked through the old town before setting off on our own to visit the Church of the Holy Ghost (Lutheran) and the Jesuit Church (Catholic). Both were impressive in different ways.

Then back on the bus to Speyer to leave our things on the ship before we walked across the park to see the Speyer Cathedral (Catholic). It is Romanesque in architecture and has beautiful murals up high instead of stained glass windows. Jazzbelle began to cry as we approached the sanctuary. She could feel the presence of God! And she thought of our dear departed pastor, Msgr. Maltese, who would have been impressed by the altar.

We were able to see all we wanted of Speyer in this bonus period, so we were glad we hadn’t opted for the all-Speyer excursion choice.

Wednesday, September 4 – Strasbourg

The ship sailed overnight to Strasbourg, so we bid Auf Wiedersehen to Germany and Bonjour to France. [And then we discovered that Alsace is really a hybrid of the two cultures…]

After a short bus ride we had a morning walking tour of Strasbourg. We enjoyed walking around drooling at the shop windows: patisseries, charcuteries, cheese vendors, wine stores, clothing shops. [Such a difference to look at fashions in a French window! The Germans don’t have the same sense of style. Not that we actually saw any French women dressed in these beautiful outfits ($$$)]

At the end of the tour AMA gave us tickets for the 12:30 performance of the Astronomical Clock in the Cathedral. This isn’t something you want to do often [it involved standing still so long, watching an informative movie and waiting for the clock to go off, that my feet went numb…], but it was absolutely worthwhile doing once. [I’m really grateful for the free tickets, because if we had had to pay we might have decided against it.]

We could have taken the bus back to the ship for lunch, but we wanted some free time in town and our guide had talked up the local specialty called tarte flambée [or Flammkuchen in Alsatian] Rick Steves recommended a particular restaurant that features this at a reasonable price, but when we got there we discovered it is closed at lunch [Rick’s bad]. So we wandered back toward the Cathedral and found a shaded sidewalk café, Le Pilier des Anges. [Tarte flambée is sort of a French version of white pizza, with crème fraîche instead of mozzarella, onions, and optionally lardons and/or mushrooms. It is not flambéed – the name means that it is traditionally cooked in a wood-fired oven] It was delicious!

[After lunch we saw the most unusual sight on the whole trip: three French road workers – actually working! It must have been a lucky coincidence that we happened by during their brief work week and they weren’t striking…]

In the afternoon AMA provided a canal cruise. This would have been very pleasant except for the intense heat baking us on the open canal boat. High 80s and no wind! [And no beer!]

The walk back to the bus was much longer than in the morning, because the buses had to park on the outskirts of town. [We later learned that those who had chosen to go back to the ship for lunch had to do this long walk on both ends of that trip. That made the tarte flambée taste even better…]

Thursday, September 5 – Colmar and Riquewihr

We sailed this morning to Breisach. The chef provided Frühschoppen (a German barbeque) on the Sun Deck just before lunch. [Jazzbelle was disappointed that they were grilling hot dogs, not bratwurst – so the rest of the trip became a hunt for a bratwurst fix…]

Although the ship docked in Germany, we opted for the French sightseeing. [It is certainly more comfortable when one understands the language] We were gone the entire afternoon, leaving at 1:00 and returning after 6:00. We visited the towns of Colmar and Riquewihr.

Colmar is a good size town with beautiful old half-timbered buildings. It touts the fact that the sculptor Bartholdi was born there and has a museum with a model of his Statue de la Liberté.

Riquewihr is a one-street village, but it is very cute and that street is lined with shops offering free wine tasting plus a couple that had fresh macaroons [real coconut macaroons, not those namby-pamby Parisian macarons].

Swans were everywhere on this trip, but the mascot of Alsace is the stork. We saw a stork’s nest prominently in a park in Strasbourg, stork dolls everywhere in Strasbourg, Colmar and Riquewihr, and stork emblems on buildings in Colmar and Riquewihr. [Little girls in Alsace were traditionally told that the stork had brought them. Boys were told they came in cabbages – there must be some gender discrimination going on here!]

We talked to some passengers who had taken the other tour option to Breisach and Freiburg – they were disappointed.

Jazzbelle couldn’t let Germany slip away that easily, so that evening she enjoyed sauerbraten and red cabbage. It was our farewell dinner on the AmaCello, and we were treated to Baked Alaska – sparklers and all.

Tonight was the saddest day of all cruises: packing up. But it wasn’t so bad this time, because we still had a four-day land extension! [Sounds like a plan…]

Friday, September 6 – Basel to Lucerne

We disembarked in Basel, Switzerland where we had a bus and walking tour and then time on our own. It was charming and the Jazzbeaux hung out in the marktplatz browsing through the vendor stalls of flowers, cheese, bread, fresh mushrooms, and local fast food. We walked some more, taking photos, and returned to the market for a lunch of bratwurst and cheese. You’re supposed to hold the [hot] bratwurst in your hand[!], but it was yummy. [And Jazzbelle finally got her bratwurst fix!]

[Jazzbeau was confused throughout the trip as everyone else pronounces this city Baz-el. He had first encountered it while studying in France and has always pronounced it Bahl. So he was gratified to find a tourist map that shows the spelling in all of Switzerland’s official languages: in French, it is Bâle! So saying Bahl is not wrong, just chauvinistic…]

On the bus at 1:00 for transfer to our hotel in Lucerne, with a stop to see the famous Lion Monument. Mark Twain said it was “the most mournful and moving piece of stone in the world” and he was right. Very touching!

Then to our hotel [Radisson Blu – very nice, but we were glad we knew to bring washcloths] before a short orientation walk with our AmaCello cruise director Reka [who accompanied us throughout the Switzerland land extension, in addition to the various local guides in Lucerne and Zurich – this was a great idea and made the trip much smoother]  Eight of us had dinner in the Rathaus Brauerei, a brew pub located partially in the ground floor of the City Hall. Fun!  [Rick Steves redeemed himself.  Also, the world would be a better place if every City Hall were turned into a brew pub!]