Monday, September 2 – Koblenz to Rudesheim – Jazzbeaux Rhine River Cruise 2013

Today was Labor Day in the US, but not Europe since they celebrate it on May Day. [We did no labor. This made us feel very French…]

This was the day to see castles as we cruised the Rhine Valley from 8:00 to 2:00. Mercifully it wasn’t raining, but it started windy and cold up on the Sun Deck – which is the best viewpoint since the castles are on both sides and the perspective changes as you approach and then pass each one. Jazzbelle was chilled even though she wore a fleece, a lined windbreaker with hood, and gloves – and walked a mile and a quarter on the track to keep warm. After a while she was castled out and went below for a nap. Jazzbeau toughed it out – ok, I spent some time in the Lounge warming up – to get a complete set of pictures. When Jazzbelle returned for more crenellations she was pleased to find warmer temps and less wind.

Our cruise director Reka handed out a map and guide to the castles and kept up a running commentary – this was very helpful and even if the stories attached to each castle aren’t true, they are entertaining. We passed the Lorelei rock and heard her siren song [over the ship’s PA system – did you know she sounds a lot like Dietrich Fischer-Dieskau?] As I processed the pictures, I was pleased to find that we had seen every one in Reka’s handout and in the book Castles and Palaces on the Rhine, which I picked up in the ship’s gift shop. This is the scenic focus of this itinerary, so I’m glad to report that it was ‘magical.’

The chef treated us to an excellent German lunch before our afternoon tour of Rudesheim.

In the afternoon the weather had changed dramatically and we were climbing uphill through a vineyard with owner Adolf Storzel informing us about vines, viruses, fruit flies, etc. in 80+ degree heat and full sun! It was brutal, but better than the morning. We sampled three different Rieslings and an Auslese [by special request, and our favorite] before descending to the village to explore on our own. We had taken a mini train to the vineyard but chose to walk back to the ship, stopping for gelato and to visit two churches. We really like the German kirchen as they are simple in style [this is true of all the Protestant churches but also many Catholic ones]. More Ikea than Italian.

After dinner we boarded the mini train again to see Siegfried’s Mechanical Music Cabinet Museum. Loved it!